Buying BDSM: Basics, Getting that good wood

Buying a kinky Implement can be a daunting task, but it doesn't have to be. While there are many factors that can affect the feel of an Implement(they're not always thuddy!), this post will focus on the different types and qualities of different wooden implements. My goal with this series is to help you better understand some of the factors that can affect the feel of a Kink Implement, without having to actually feel it yourself. I’m going to break this post down into three smaller parts: Hardness, knots/ figures, and finishes.

As many ladies and bottoms know, not all wood is built the same. There are softwoods, hardwoods, and super hardwoods. Not all of these are good for implements. Softwoods such as (but not limited to): pine, cedar, fir, balsa, and Chinese whitewood are all considered softwood. These woods are not good for implements no matter how they are prepared. They will inevitably break even with the lightest of play. These woods should be avoided unless you are specifically buying the implement to break it during play. Hardwoods such as (but not limited to) Oak, walnut, maple, cherry, Adler, and countless others. These are awesome materials for implements. However, you may need to watch out for knots or deformities in the implement to make sure that the piece will be structurally sound. Super Hardwoods such as (but not limited to) Bloodwood, purple heart, ebony, ironwood, African blackwood, snakewood, and countless others. These woods are amazing for use in implements, but many are much more expensive as opposed to traditional hardwood. I hear you thinking “but trying, how do I figure out if a wood is soft, hard, or super hard?” The easiest answer is to google “[wood species] Hardness” and if the number is less than 900lbs (~400 Kg) I would avoid it for use in an implement. And if the hardness is above 2000lbs (~900 Kg) I would consider it a super hard wood.

Knots! No, I’m not talking about the shibari kind. I’m talking about the area in the wood that a branch grew through when it was a tree. They can cause some really pretty looks in the wood, but the knot itself should be treated as a whole in the wood, so if it’s right on an edge, or in the handle, I would avoid that implement. If the wood has a bunch of swirls and swoops in the grain that is called the wood’s “figure” it does not structurally harm the wood and can add some character and uniqueness to the piece.

Finally, on to finishes. No, I’m not done, there’s still another paragraph after this. There are generally 3 types of finishes used on wood. Oil, Wax, and Lacquer. Oil and wax finishes are good finishes, though they do not prevent bodily fluids from soaking into the wood, sometimes permanently staining that implement. Then there are Lacquer finishes which create a hard protective shell around the wood, completely sealing the wood, preventing fluids from soaking into the wood. All are able to be rinsed down with water, and all of your implements should be finished. If you use an implement made from unfinished wood, the bodily fluids will soak in and stain the wood that may not be able to be removed later.

This was a basic introduction to the different types of wood and what to look for in a wooden implement. Next time we’re gonna talk about wood implements and how different effects affect the feel of the implement.